Is sourdough worth the effort? A baker's honest answer

Three days, a jar of goo and a lot of anxiety for one loaf. We asked a professional whether it is worth it

Is sourdough worth the effort? A baker's honest answer
Three days, a jar of goo and a lot of anxiety for one loaf. We asked a professional whether it is worth it Photograph: EPA

Would I recommend it? Cautiously, yes. Not as a transformation, because it is not one, but as a small, pleasant adjustment that costs almost nothing and gives back a little more than it takes.

A month on, I am still doing it. Not every day, and not with any particular discipline, but often enough that it has become mine. That, in the end, is probably the point.

It had stopped feeling like a chore and started feeling like part of the day

I should say at the outset that I was sceptical. I have read too many articles promising that one small change will transform your life, and I have made too many of those changes, and my life has remained stubbornly the same.

But there is something to be said for actually trying a thing rather than reading about it, so I did. For a month. Properly. What follows is an honest account of what happened.

What I would do differently

The first few days were, frankly, difficult. Not dramatically so, but in the way that any new habit is difficult: you keep forgetting, and then remembering, and then feeling slightly annoyed with yourself.

By the second week something had shifted. It was not that it had become easy, exactly, but it had stopped feeling like a chore and started feeling like part of the day, in the way that brushing your teeth is part of the day.

I asked an expert whether what I was noticing was real or whether I was simply paying attention to something I would normally have ignored. "Honestly, both," she said. "And that is not a bad thing. Paying attention is most of the benefit."

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Oliver Hayes
Oliver Hayes

Food and drink writer

Oliver Hayes writes about food, restaurants and the people who make them. He cooks badly but eats well.

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