Why everyone is cooking with miso, and five ways to use it

The fermented paste has escaped the soup bowl. Here is how to put it in everything

Why everyone is cooking with miso, and five ways to use it
The fermented paste has escaped the soup bowl. Here is how to put it in everything Photograph: AFP/Getty Images

I asked an expert whether what I was noticing was real or whether I was simply paying attention to something I would normally have ignored. "Honestly, both," she said. "And that is not a bad thing. Paying attention is most of the benefit."

If I were starting again I would be less ambitious. The biggest mistake I made was trying to do it perfectly, which meant that the first time I slipped I felt as though the whole thing had failed. It had not. It just needed a lighter touch.

It had stopped feeling like a chore and started feeling like part of the day

Would I recommend it? Cautiously, yes. Not as a transformation, because it is not one, but as a small, pleasant adjustment that costs almost nothing and gives back a little more than it takes.

A month on, I am still doing it. Not every day, and not with any particular discipline, but often enough that it has become mine. That, in the end, is probably the point.

Week one

I should say at the outset that I was sceptical. I have read too many articles promising that one small change will transform your life, and I have made too many of those changes, and my life has remained stubbornly the same.

But there is something to be said for actually trying a thing rather than reading about it, so I did. For a month. Properly. What follows is an honest account of what happened.

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Oliver Hayes
Oliver Hayes

Food and drink writer

Oliver Hayes writes about food, restaurants and the people who make them. He cooks badly but eats well.

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